Monday, June 20, 2016
FALL 2016 Pattern Drafting of Men’s Bespoke Garments Course Title: Pattern Drafting of Men’s Bespoke Garments Academic Year: Fall 2016 Course Context: Savile Row is acknowledged as the home of bespoke tailoring and a byword for unequalled quality the world over. It’s traditions and techniques where formed over two centuries and are now protected and promoted by the Savile Row Bespoke Association. Using specific pattern drafting techniques, methods of construction and materials, Savile row represents the highest in luxury fashion practiced by such historical tailoring houses like Henry Poole & co. and Gieves & Hawks.
Course Description: This course focuses on pattern drafting for men’s bespoke garments. Starting with the figure, the student will come to understanding figuration, body proportions, measuring, pattern drafting, pattern manipulation, fitting try-on garments and remedying deflects in bespoke garments. Students will learn to draft Trouser, Waistcoat and Coat patterns for various sizes, as well as the corpulent figure. Fitting demonstrations will be carried out in class; each student will draft a three-piece suit pattern to be fitted to a guest model. The student with the try-on requiring the fewest alterations will be named as the ‘Student of the Year’. Upon completion of the course each student will have pattern drafting notes and diagrams, a fitting manual and block patterns for the Coat, Waistcoat and Trouser.
The Briefs 1. Trouser draft & Muslin/ Calico fitting Due Week 5 A trouser, well fitted, is more comfortable than a tracksuit and more professional looking too. In class the student will learn to measure, configure and draft a pair of tailored trousers. These drafts will be cut and sewn in calico and fitted to a model. Project Outcomes: The student will draft a series of patterns over a period of five weeks. Each student will learn the draft and generate a pattern without referring to their notes. Four different styles of trousers will be learnt these include Plain trouser fronts, Brace-top trousers, pleats both Forward and Reverse. Students will also come to understand pocket positions and waistband features and closures.
2. Waistcoat draft & Muslin/ Calico fitting Due week 7 Charles II introduced Waistcoats in the seventeenth century as the correct dress during the restoration of the British monarchy. These were of simple straight cut made from black cloth with a white silk lining. Students will learn to cut and fit a variety of waistcoats in both modern and traditional styles. Project Outcomes: The student will learn to draft a waistcoat pattern for normal, erect, stooping and corpulent figure types. Once the draft is learnt the student will be tested in drafting a pattern to a size without referring to their notes. Fittings and alteration to pattern will also be examined, the student will baste their pattern together in calico and fit them to a model to not only learn how to fit and alter a pattern, but how to approach a client during the fitting stage.
3. Coat draft & Muslim/ Calico fitting Due week 15 The modern lounge suit appeared in the late 19th century, but traces its origins to the simplified, sartorial standard of dress established by King Charles II in the 17th century. As the coat is recognized as the most difficult menswear garment to cut and fit, eight weeks of training are dedicated to training the students in this art. Project Outcomes: From the first day in class the student’s knowledge will be building towards cutting the coat pattern. As their understanding of the male figure develops, their judgment for assessing the idiosyncrasies of the male form will take shape. Learning to notice the variants from one side of the body to the other and transferring this into the pattern. Like the trouser and waistcoat projects, the student will cut a variety of coat patterns for different figures and styles. Starting with the normal figure, moving into erect, head forward, stooping and corpulent. A model will be brought in for the final assessment and the student will be required to measure figure assess and cut a pattern without notes, to be evaluated to determine their grade.
Week 1 – Week 5 We begin with a course overview, reading through the syllabus and discuss the briefs, so each student knows that to expect in the coming weeks. Before drafting commences the tools are examine, the L-square the tailor’s imperial calculator, the Hip curve, and two French curves uses are explained. The male figuration will be discussed, images and diagrams are studied, explaining the variations and proportionate changes. Measuring systems will be examined, practiced and discussed. Students will have a chance to look at the Direct Measure System and receive an explanation on Scale, the preferred system of cutting. Cutting for bow-legs, straight legs and knock-knees will discussed and practiced. Using one another as models, the students will cut patterns for each other and fit them examining the different variations of cutting and how the fit compares. Trouser styles will also be explained, the students will learn the brace-top, straight top, plain fronts, double and reverse pleat drafts. Examples will be shown of waistband styles, closures, waist adjusters e.g. Dax and straps, button and zip flies, trouser finishing etc. A model will be brought in for the students to measure, draft and cut a pattern, then sew in muslin to prepare a fitting for. Students will be assessed on this project, which will contribute to their final result.
Week 5 – Week 6 The waistcoat presents similar challenges to the Coat, as such the course at this stage will focus on the torso. Posture, the shape of the spine and shoulder angles will be examined and how this is translated into the pattern. Measuring for the waistcoat will be reexamined, style lengthens, openings and waistcoat details, formal and business dress styles will be studied and patterns for each will be cut in various sizes. Students will learn to fit through class demos and imagery, notes will be provided that will be added to their portfolio to be used for future reference. A model will be brought in so the students can measure, draft, cut and make a muslin fitting that will be assessed as part of their final grade.