Syllabus: Bespoke Trouser Making Menswear
Level 1
Novice skills
Instructor Information
Instructor: Rory Duffy
Email: Roryduffybespoke@gmail.com
Online Contact Skype: duffyrory
Course Duration
Three classes per week, for one hour over a four week period.
Course Information
Trouser Making for Menswear is a level 1, beginner course which strikes a balance between machine and hand-sewing techniques. Just like the tailors of Savile Row the student will learn how to make a pair of modern bespoke trousers.
What is best done by hand is hand-sewn and what is better done by machine is machine sewn.
The system of making taught here is not one found when treadle machines where still common-place in Savile Row workshops, but rather the modern approached used today by skilled artisans who know that a seam sewn by machine is equally as strong as one done by hand.
The Handcraft Tailor Academy through its book ‘Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System’ offers a complete drafting system focused on cutting the Men’s Bespoke Trousers with easy to follow instructions.
The first class is focused on teaching the student how to cut the Trouser patterns in measurements of their choosing. Supported by a trimming package provided by Dugdale Brothers, the student follows along in their own time a step by step guide on how to make a true gentleman’s bespoke garment.
Using traditional sewing techniques taught by our course instructor, Rory Duffy - a Savile Row trained master tailor, the student combines both machine and hand sewing taught in a way that is easy to understand. No detail is overlooked and no questions will remain unanswered.
All courses offered to students as one to one training.
All students past and present can reach out to the course instructor for guidance under our one-year mentorship program.
Goals and Expectations
The purpose of this course is to arm the student with the knowledge they require to make the garment, some student progress quicker than others. It's not a race to the finish, it's about understanding and learning the techniques require so when the student has mastered the techniques they can complete the garment in their own time. Equipped with the recording from each lesson some will complete the project within weeks of course completion and others within a few months.
Course Materials
HTA trimming packages are available from www.Dugdalebros.com by request. Other tools such as thimbles, shears and needles can be purchased separately. The student must also have access to an industrial or domestic sewing machine and domestic iron, as well as a domestic or industrial serger/ over-locker for the side-seams. If one is not available, pinking shears may be substituted
Pressing equipment such as a tailors ham or chest board and sleeve board who also be a huge benefit. This equipment can be sourced on eBay or Amazon.
Optional Equipment
For students who wish to further their knowledge of the production techniques, they could consider investing in a blind-stitch machine for hemming.
Course schedule
Lesson 1: Pattern drafting
Using your own measurements the instructor will demonstrate how to cut the back and fore-part to fit the student or their subject.
Lesson 2: A continuation from the first lesson
Cutting the patterns for the hip pockets, back pockets and fly.
Lesson 3: Cut in cloth
The demonstration will show how to lay the pattern on the cloth, add inlays and cut out the fabric.
Lesson 4: Trimming the trousers
The demonstration will show how to cut the linings, pocket pieces and fly pieces.
Lesson 5: Making the Hip Pockets
Straight or slanted style, the student decides which demo they would like to see.
Lesson 6: Making the Back Pockets
Welt or jetted, the student decides which demo they would like to see.
Lesson 7: Zip fly and waist-band prep
The fly is sewn in by machine and the waistband canvas is cut and sewn.
Lesson 8: Side-seams, straps and waistband
With the side-seams sewn the waistband can be added, along with the side-strap and buckle.
Lesson 9: Inside leg and shrinking
One of the hallmarks of bespoke is the shrinking and shaping of the trousers legs.
Lesson 10: Shrink, press and seat seam
Both legs are joined through the seat seam marking the step into the final stages of trouser making.
Lesson 11: Hook & bars, strap pick stitch and prep for the lining
Strong hook & bars are used the close bespoke trousers, these are the type you find in your local haberdashery
Lesson 12: Curtains
Just as the traditionalists of Savile Row, all trousers are finished with striped waistband lining and curtains.
Lesson 13: Waistband lining
The waistband lining is basted into place ready for fell stitching.
Lesson 14: Finishing stitching
Many different types of hand stitches are used to finish the trousers including the buttonhole stitch
Lesson 15: Final press
Every square inch is pressed before it is ready for wearing.
Level 1
Novice skills
Instructor Information
Instructor: Rory Duffy
Email: Roryduffybespoke@gmail.com
Online Contact Skype: duffyrory
Course Duration
Three classes per week, for one hour over a four week period.
Course Information
Trouser Making for Menswear is a level 1, beginner course which strikes a balance between machine and hand-sewing techniques. Just like the tailors of Savile Row the student will learn how to make a pair of modern bespoke trousers.
What is best done by hand is hand-sewn and what is better done by machine is machine sewn.
The system of making taught here is not one found when treadle machines where still common-place in Savile Row workshops, but rather the modern approached used today by skilled artisans who know that a seam sewn by machine is equally as strong as one done by hand.
The Handcraft Tailor Academy through its book ‘Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System’ offers a complete drafting system focused on cutting the Men’s Bespoke Trousers with easy to follow instructions.
The first class is focused on teaching the student how to cut the Trouser patterns in measurements of their choosing. Supported by a trimming package provided by Dugdale Brothers, the student follows along in their own time a step by step guide on how to make a true gentleman’s bespoke garment.
Using traditional sewing techniques taught by our course instructor, Rory Duffy - a Savile Row trained master tailor, the student combines both machine and hand sewing taught in a way that is easy to understand. No detail is overlooked and no questions will remain unanswered.
All courses offered to students as one to one training.
All students past and present can reach out to the course instructor for guidance under our one-year mentorship program.
Goals and Expectations
The purpose of this course is to arm the student with the knowledge they require to make the garment, some student progress quicker than others. It's not a race to the finish, it's about understanding and learning the techniques require so when the student has mastered the techniques they can complete the garment in their own time. Equipped with the recording from each lesson some will complete the project within weeks of course completion and others within a few months.
Course Materials
HTA trimming packages are available from www.Dugdalebros.com by request. Other tools such as thimbles, shears and needles can be purchased separately. The student must also have access to an industrial or domestic sewing machine and domestic iron, as well as a domestic or industrial serger/ over-locker for the side-seams. If one is not available, pinking shears may be substituted
Pressing equipment such as a tailors ham or chest board and sleeve board who also be a huge benefit. This equipment can be sourced on eBay or Amazon.
Optional Equipment
For students who wish to further their knowledge of the production techniques, they could consider investing in a blind-stitch machine for hemming.
Course schedule
- Week 1
Lesson 1: Pattern drafting
Using your own measurements the instructor will demonstrate how to cut the back and fore-part to fit the student or their subject.
Lesson 2: A continuation from the first lesson
Cutting the patterns for the hip pockets, back pockets and fly.
Lesson 3: Cut in cloth
The demonstration will show how to lay the pattern on the cloth, add inlays and cut out the fabric.
- Week 2
Lesson 4: Trimming the trousers
The demonstration will show how to cut the linings, pocket pieces and fly pieces.
Lesson 5: Making the Hip Pockets
Straight or slanted style, the student decides which demo they would like to see.
Lesson 6: Making the Back Pockets
Welt or jetted, the student decides which demo they would like to see.
- Week 3:
Lesson 7: Zip fly and waist-band prep
The fly is sewn in by machine and the waistband canvas is cut and sewn.
Lesson 8: Side-seams, straps and waistband
With the side-seams sewn the waistband can be added, along with the side-strap and buckle.
Lesson 9: Inside leg and shrinking
One of the hallmarks of bespoke is the shrinking and shaping of the trousers legs.
- Week 4
Lesson 10: Shrink, press and seat seam
Both legs are joined through the seat seam marking the step into the final stages of trouser making.
Lesson 11: Hook & bars, strap pick stitch and prep for the lining
Strong hook & bars are used the close bespoke trousers, these are the type you find in your local haberdashery
Lesson 12: Curtains
Just as the traditionalists of Savile Row, all trousers are finished with striped waistband lining and curtains.
- Week 5
Lesson 13: Waistband lining
The waistband lining is basted into place ready for fell stitching.
Lesson 14: Finishing stitching
Many different types of hand stitches are used to finish the trousers including the buttonhole stitch
Lesson 15: Final press
Every square inch is pressed before it is ready for wearing.
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