In-house Waistcoat Making, the Savile Row style

Week 1.


Lesson 1: Pattern drafting


Using your own measurements the instructor will demonstrate how to cut the back and fore-part to fit the student or their subject.


Lesson 2:  Cut in cloth


The demonstration will show how to lay the pattern on the cloth, add inlays and cut out the fabric


Lesson 3: Trimming the coat


The demonstration will show how to cut the canvas, linings and pocket pieces.


Lesson 4: Mark stitching and cutting the canvases


Also known as tailor's tacks or thread marks, are used to transfer the pattern from one side of the cloth to both layers.


Lesson 5: Sewing the straight seams, canvas darts and pocket preparations


Week 2.


Lesson 6: Welt pockets


The same method as used in both the outbreast of the Morning Coat and Lounge Coat is first practised on the waistcoat.


Lesson 7: Canvassing off


Once the pockets are sewn in the canvas is attached to the foreparts.


Lesson 8: Making the fitting


The foreparts are basted to the back so a check fitting can be made.


Lesson 9: Fitting the waistcoat.


Learn how to conduct a fitting, identifying fitting issues and how to remedy them.


Lesson 10: Shaping and taping


The front edges are shaped and a bias lining draws the edge as is done on the Morning coat and lounge coat.


Lesson 11: Facing and foreparts lining


Using the traditional method of attaching a facing the front edge seam is hand-sewn. One of the few techniques of a bygone era revitalised in waistcoat making.


Week 3.


Lesson 12: Bagging out the back lining


In one straight shot, the waistcoat is transformed from a lined garment to the finished garment.


Lesson 13: Finishing


A number of hand sewing techniques are used to finish the waistcoat including the buttonhole.


Lesson 14: Final Press


Once all the hand-stitching is complete, the waistcoat is ready for pressing off.


Lesson 15: Buttoning and evaluation

The last lesson is sewing on the buttons, the overall make and fit will be assessed by our Master Tailor and instructor.


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