In-house Waistcoat Making, the Savile Row style

Week 1.

Lesson 1: Pattern drafting

Using your own measurements the instructor will demonstrate how to cut the back and fore-part to fit the student or their subject.

Lesson 2:  Cut in cloth

The demonstration will show how to lay the pattern on the cloth, add inlays and cut out the fabric

Lesson 3: Trimming the coat

The demonstration will show how to cut the canvas, linings and pocket pieces.

Lesson 4: Mark stitching and cutting the canvases

Also known as tailor's tacks or thread marks, are used to transfer the pattern from one side of the cloth to both layers.

Lesson 5: Sewing the straight seams, canvas darts and pocket preparations

Week 2.

Lesson 6: Welt pockets

The same method as used in both the outbreast of the Morning Coat and Lounge Coat is first practised on the waistcoat.

Lesson 7: Canvassing off

Once the pockets are sewn in the canvas is attached to the foreparts.

Lesson 8: Making the fitting

The foreparts are basted to the back so a check fitting can be made.

Lesson 9: Fitting the waistcoat.

Learn how to conduct a fitting, identifying fitting issues and how to remedy them.

Lesson 10: Shaping and taping

The front edges are shaped and a bias lining draws the edge as is done on the Morning coat and lounge coat.

Lesson 11: Facing and foreparts lining

Using the traditional method of attaching a facing the front edge seam is hand-sewn. One of the few techniques of a bygone era revitalised in waistcoat making.

Week 3.

Lesson 12: Bagging out the back lining

In one straight shot, the waistcoat is transformed from a lined garment to the finished garment.

Lesson 13: Finishing

A number of hand sewing techniques are used to finish the waistcoat including the buttonhole.

Lesson 14: Final Press

Once all the hand-stitching is complete, the waistcoat is ready for pressing off.

Lesson 15: Buttoning and evaluation

The last lesson is sewing on the buttons, the overall make and fit will be assessed by our Master Tailor and instructor.

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