Handcraft Morning Coat Making

Syllabus: Making of a Handcraft Morning Coat

Level 3 

Proficient skills

Instructor Information

Instructor: Rory Duffy

Email: Roryduffybespoke@gmail.com

Online Contact Skype: duffyrory

Course Duration

Four classes per week, for one hour over a six week period.

Course Information

The Morning Coat first made its appearance in the late 18th century daytime formal wear attire and remained popular until circa 1910. The design of the coat is deeply rooted in equestrian attire. It consisted of a matching coat and waistcoat paired with striped trousers. A top-hat was optional and only worn for the most formal of occasions. Today, this attire is often donned for formal events such as weddings, high end functions, and races.

Nowadays this form of dress is reserved mostly for weddings and a day at the Races.

The Handcraft Tailor Academy through its book ‘Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System’ offers a complete drafting system focused on cutting the Morning coat with easy to follow instructions.

The first class is focused on teaching the student how to cut the Morning in measurements of their choosing. Supported by a trimming package provided by Dugdale Brothers, the student follows along in their own time a step by step guide on how to make a true gentleman’s bespoke garment.

Using traditional sewing techniques taught by our course instructor Rory Duffy a Savile Row trained Master Tailor, the student combines both machine and hand sewing taught in a way that is easy to understand. No detail is overlooked and no questions will remain unanswered.

Goals and Expectations

The purpose of this course is to arm the student with the knowledge they require to make the garment, some student progress quicker than others. It's not a race to the finish, it's about understanding and learning the techniques require so when the student has mastered the techniques they can complete the garment in their own time. Equipped with the recording from each lesson some will complete the project within weeks of course completion and others within a few months.

All students past and present can reach out to the course instructor for guidance under our one-year mentorship program.

All courses offered to students as one to one training.

Course Materials

Dugdale Brothers offer all the trimming required for every course. Other tools such as thimbles, shears and needles can be purchased separately. The student must also have access to an industrial or domestic sewing machine and domestic iron.

Pressing equipment such as a tailors ham or chest board and sleeve board who also be a huge benefit. This equipment can be sourced on eBay or Amazon.

Optional Equipment

For students who wish to further their knowledge of the production techniques, they could consider investing in a blind-stitch machine and a domestic sewing machine with a zig-zag function.

Course schedule

  • Week 1
Lesson 1: Pattern drafting

Using your own measurements the instructor will demonstrate how to cut the back and fore-part to fit the student or their subject.

Lesson 2: A continuation from the first lesson

Cutting the patterns for the sleeves, under-collar and facing.

Lesson 3: Cut in cloth

The demonstration will show how to lay the pattern on the cloth, add inlays and cut out the fabric.

Lesson 4: Trimming the coat

The demonstration will show how to cut the canvas, linings and pocket pieces.

  • Week 2
Lesson 5: Making the canvasses

Using either hand or machine sewing techniques the demonstration will show how to make the canvasses which are the foundation on which the coat is laid.

Lesson 6: Straight seams and pockets

All the machine sewn seams will be completed and pressed ready for the next stage.

Lesson 7: Sewing the out-breast and canvas darts

The only outside pocket found on the Morning coat is the out-breast and the shape will be added to the canvasses with the chest darts, preparing for attaching to the foreparts.

Lesson 8: Canvassing off the left and right fore-part

The canvas is attached to the right fore-part first then followed by the left.

  • Week 3:
Lesson 9: Padding lapels

Using either machine or hand-sewing techniques the demonstration will show how to pad and roll the lapels.

Lesson 10: Shaping and taping

The coat fore-parts are now ready to be shaped and taped with bias lining securing the edge to the canvas.

Lesson 11: Facing and in-breast pockets

Two inside pockets are added to the linings and facings positioned below the armholes.

Lesson 12: Attaching the facings

The lapels are covered with the facing cloth and lining.

  • Week 4
Lesson 13: Lining the tails

With the facings turned out the tails can be covered with lining as well as the back panel.

Lesson 14: Sewing the centre back seam

The two fore-parts are joined through the centre back seam. The back vent is sewn and lining attached.

Lesson 15: Joining the shoulders

The shoulder seams are chalked and basted together.

Lesson 16: Shoulder seams and shoulder pads

The shoulder seams are machine sewn and the shoulder pads are attached to the armhole.

  • Week 5
Lesson 17: Making the under-collar

Using either machine or hand-sewing techniques the under-collar is made up using collar canvas and melton.

Lesson 18: Attaching and shaping the under-collar 

The under-collar is shaped and then attached to the neck hole of the coat and hand-sewn into place.

Lesson 19: Top collar and draw-seams

Cloth is laid over the under-collar and basted to the gorge.

Lesson 20: Making the sleeves

The cuff and sleeve seams are sewn and the lining added.

  • Week 6
Lesson 21: Basting the sleeves

The sleeves are set in using a basting stitch, fullness is added then shrunk away in preparation for the permanent stitch.

Lesson 22: Sewing the armhole

The sleeves are sewing in by machine and the basting is removed. This is followed by the sleeve head wading and attaching the lining.

Lesson 23: Hand finishing

There are a number of different hand-stitches used to finish the Morning Coat including the button-hole. Each is demonstrated using hand sewing silk, which can be substituted with waxed machine thread.

Lesson 24: Final press 

The coat is now ready for pressing and buttoning. The coat is shaped with an iron and chest-board.

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