Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear

Syllabus: Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear


Level 1

Novice skills


Instructor Information

Instructor: Rory Duffy

Email: Roryduffybespoke@gmail.com

Online Contact Skype: duffyrory


Course Duration

Four classes per week, for one hour, over a five and half week period.


Course Information

We strongly suggest that if you are seeking to learn Handcraft Tailoring at any level, start with Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear.

No matter how well a garment is made, if the pattern is not cut correctly, if an appropriate fit is not achieved, then fine stitching will not make up for its shortcomings.

The HTA offers a five-week online course covering ever draft from Trousers, Waistcoats, Coats, Overcoats, the Morning Coat as well as the Disproportionate Figures to Measuring and Fitting. To support this course we offer a complimentary copy of our book 'Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System'.

As a student, you will be expected to mail your patterns each week for evaluation. If mailing isn't possible we will accept a digital image.

For students who can not commit to such a rigorous timetable, the course can be stretched out over a longer period.


Goals and Expectations

The purpose of this course is to arm the student with the knowledge they require to draft bespoke garments, some student progress quicker than others. It's not a race to the finish, it's about understanding and learning the techniques require so when the student has mastered the techniques they excel at pattern drafting. Equipped with the recording from each lesson students can look back over the footage every time they want to cut a pattern.

All students past and present can reach out to the course instructor for guidance under our one-year mentorship program.

All courses offered to students as one to one training.


Course Materials

A tool list and its source are available upon request. Tools needed include a tailors scaled L-square, a 12" french curve, a 24" french curve, a 24" hip curve and a grading ruler. Packs sold on eBay include all these tools bar the 24" french curve which can be purchased separately. An armhole shaper known as a 'Hand' tool is available to purchase on Amazon.


Optional Equipment

A yardstick is also helpful but not essential. 


Course schedule

• Week 1

Lesson 1: Introduction to tools, Measurement Chart and Head units

Lesson 2: Trouser draft, Closed leg, topsides and undersides

Lesson 3: Trouser draft, Open leg, topsides and undersides

Lesson 4: Trouser draft, Straight leg, topsides and undersides. Disappearing darts and stride quantity.

• Week 2

Lesson 5: Trouser draft, Pleated style, topsides and undersides. Flipping the pleat

Lesson 6: Brace-tops half bands, function of the seat angle

Lesson 7: Corpulent trouser draft

Lesson 8: Waistcoat Draft

• Week 3:

Lesson 9: Double-breasted and corpulent draft.

Lesson 10: Coat Draft 6" drop

Lesson 11: Traditional Savile Row style & Figuration

Lesson 12: Coat Draft 4" drop

• Week 4

Lesson 13: Side-body and sleeve draft

Lesson 14: Slim fit short style

Lesson 15: Three button short style with side-body

Lesson 16: Atheltic cut with side-body

• Week 5

Lesson 17: Facing & under-collar

Lesson 18: Corpulent/ Portly Coat draft

Lesson 19: Overcoat 

Lesson 20: Overcoat Corpulent draft 

• Week 6

Lesson 21: Morning Coat

Lesson 22: Common alterations