In-house Bespoke Coat Making & Fitting

Course options:

-Six weeks full coat plus fittings
-Five weeks full Coat course No fittings
-Two weeks up to pocket baste fitting
-Three weeks up to forward fitting

Week 1

Lesson 1: Pattern drafting

Using your own measurements the instructor will demonstrate how to cut the back and fore-part to fit the student or their subject.

Lesson 2: Pattern Cutting

A continuation from the first lesson
Cutting the patterns for the sleeves, under-collar and facing.

Lesson 3: Cut in cloth

The demonstration will show how to lay the pattern on the cloth, add inlays and cut out the fabric.

Lesson 4: Trimming the coat.

The demonstration will show how to cut the canvas, linings and pocket pieces.

Lesson 5: Making the canvasses.

Using either hand or machine sewing techniques the demonstration will show how to make the canvasses which are the foundation on which the coat is laid.

Week 2

Lesson 6: Straight seams and cross-pockets.

All the machine sewn seams will be completed and pressed ready for the next stage.

Lesson 7: Sewing the out-breast and canvas darts.

The other outside pocket found on the coat is the out-breast and the shape will be added to the canvasses with the chest darts, preparing for attaching to the foreparts.

Lesson 8: Canvassing off the left and right fore-part.

The canvas is attached to the right fore-part first then followed by the left.

Lesson 9: Pocket baste to shoulders.

The foreparts are attached to the back with basting stitches.

Lesson 10: Pocket baste Shoulders, collar & sleeves.

The coat is made to a pocket baste, ready for fitting.

Week 3.

Lesson 11: Fitting the coat.

This lesson will show how to conduct a fitting, identify fitting issues and how to remedy them. Rip and remark.

Lesson 12. Padding lapels

Using either machine or hand-sewing techniques the demonstration will show how to pad and roll the lapels.

Lesson 13: Shaping and taping

The coat fore-parts are now ready to be shaped and taped with bias lining securing the edge to the canvas.

Lesson 14: Facing and in-breast pockets

Two inside pockets are added to the linings and facings positioned below the armholes.

Lesson 15: Attaching the facings
The lapels are covered with the facing cloth and lining.

Week 4.

Lesson 16: Making a  Forward fitting:

The back is basted to the foreparts, the shoulders, shoulder pads, collar and sleeves are basted for a forward fitting.

Lesson 17: Forward fitting.

Lesson shows how to conduct a forward fitting, identify fitting issues and remedy them.
Rip and remark.

Lesson 18: Lining the Back

With the facings turned out, the back is then covered with lining.

Lesson 19: Sewing the side-seam

The two fore-parts are joined to the back at the side-seam. The side-vents are sewn and lining attached.

Lesson 20: Cross-stitching the hem and facings.

The facing and hems are stitched into place and the is shoulder seams are chalked and basted together.

Week 5

Lesson 21: Shoulder seams and shoulder pads.

The shoulder seams are machine sewn and the shoulder pads are attached to the armhole.

Lesson 22: Making the under-collar.

Using either machine or hand-sewing techniques the under-collar is made up using collar canvas and melton.

Lesson 23: Attaching and shaping the under-collar.

The under-collar is shaped and then attached to the neck hole of the coat and hand-sewn into place

Lesson 24:  Top collar and draw seams.

Cloth is laid over the under-collar and basted to the gorge.

Lesson 25: Making the sleeves.

The cuff and sleeve seams are sewn and the lining added.

Week 6:

Lesson 26: Basting the sleeves.

The sleeves are set in using a basting stitch, fullness is added then shrunk away in preparation for the permanent stitch.

Lesson 27: Sewing the armhole.

The sleeves are sewing in by machine and the basting is removed. This is followed by the sleeve head wading and attaching the lining.

Lesson 28: Hand finishing.

There are a number of different hand-stitches used to finish the Bespoke Coat including the button-hole. Each is demonstrated using hand sewing silk, which can be substituted with waxed machine thread.

Lesson 29: Final press.

The coat is now ready for pressing and buttoning. The coat is shaped with an iron and chest board.

Lesson 30: Buttoning,Feedback and evaluation .

The coat is finished and the buttons are added.

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