Trouser Making

When one trains to be a master tailor, trousers are dealt with first. Being much quicker and easier to make the apprentice could master the sewing machine and learn the basic hand-stitches before moving on to the jacket. A tailor must master both the sewing machine and hand-stitch to truly be a master.

Once the patterns have been struck out on the cloth they are cut and notched with inlays added. The inlays  usually on the underside running down the inside leg seam, fork and seat and side seam. Bench shears are traditional used to cut the cloth. They are longer and broader than normal tailors shears and are rarely raised off the bench when in use, they can cut through the heaviest wool with ease.

The excess cloth from around the pattern is used to trim the trouser. Called "the fit up", by tailors, the fly, waistband and pocket facings are cut to size. The top and undersides are thread marked. Waist seam, balance marks, hem, inlay, hip points, dart points and center line crease are transferred to both sides of the cloth. Notch the fly, balance and knee position to ensure accuracy.

It's now ready for overlocking. This stitch prevents the cloth from fraying on the edge and weakening the seams. As this machine has a knife for trimming the edge fibers, care  should be taken while operating not to alter the pattern by cut the cloth. The right side of the cloth should face up at all times to ensure uniformity.