Since all garment cutting is based on measurements, its is therefore imperative that correct measures are required before pattern cutting commences. Therefore the apprentice cutters first call is the taking of accurate measures. All measurements should be taken in regular order, beginning with the widths and then the lengths.
In trousers, widths include waist, seat, thigh, knee, calf and hem. The lengths include the leg and side seam. It is often the case that an apprentice will get the the side seam short if taken first and then asks the client to pull up his trousers when taking the inside leg. The seat is located 3" to 4" above the fork level and is the broads part of the buttocks. When the thigh measure is taken it should be on the undress side, usually the right, and taken close.
The body rise is obtained by deducting the inside leg measure from the side seam. The knee and hem are usually determined by fashion. The width of the hem will influence the length of the leg. A narrow leg requires less length than a wider one. A guide for this is minus a half an inch for every inch under twenty. Therefore if one requires a sixteen inch hem two inches are subtracted from the inside leg length.
When taking length measures on the trousers measure to the floor and deduct. Traditional, with turn ups the leg is a half an inch shorter.