After the pocket baste is fitted, the garment is ripped down, remarked and the front edges are shaped. Any excess inlay is removed, an adequate amount is allowed at the shoulder and side seam for future alterations
Once the front edge is trimmed back the bias lining tape can be applied. This tape holds the front edge of the jacket, it is drawn off and basted in position. This in turn encouraging the fronts to roll inward, giving shape to the foreparts.
The tape is hand sewn to the canvas using the padding stitch. The stitches should be kept short, approx 1/4", to maximise control.
A prick stitch is applied through the tape at the forepart round, to ensure a define guide when sewing on the facing. The facings should be prepared by inserting the pockets and pressing flat.
Position the facing on the forepart, the in breast pockets should be located high in the chest so as not to interfere with the waist.
The straight grain of the cloth runs horizontal down the lapel edge. The facing is baste flat through the lapel and full through the buttons to the hem. This fullness should correspond to the draw of the linning tape from the previous step. This will prevent the edge appearing tight after it is finished.
The front edge is machine stitched 1/4" seams width. Once sewn the forepart is placed on a wooden sleeve board and the seam is pressed open with out steam. The notch seams are pared back and pressed open. Removing the excess cloth before turning out, makes a smoother notch or peak.
Turn out the facing and baste the edge closed. This stitch is of both form and function. Not only does it hold the edge during the make up but it also shape the front edge in it desirable form during the final press. Having the right amount of length of cloth in certain position of the bespoke garment is the secret to their beauty.
The fullness added to the facing shapes the front of the jacket. As the forepart is convex so the facing and linning must have length to push the forepart out. If the facing is tight it will cause the front to distort and the chest to collapse.
A blank stitch secures the hem of the garment, the stitch is long and lose so not to track on the front of the jacket when it is finished.
The fullness in the facing is carefully distributed in the chest and forepart, with a hand padding stitch. The pockets are sewn to the canvas giving them support when used by the wearer.
The forepart should now be pressed so the fullness disappears and facing appears clean. The jacket is pressed in halves on a wooden chest board with a damp cloth.
Silk lining is place over the inner workings of the jacket to hide the canvas and bare seams. As the facing, the lining is filled into the jacket. Fullness is needed in the facing seam as hand sewing uses more fullness than a machine stitch. Wax silk thread will be used at the finishing stage to attach the lining to the jacket. Large parts of the garment are only basted during the making, is not until the final stage are they permanently sewn.
Windows are cut into the lining and the edges are turned and basted around the pocket mouth. Thus finishing the lining of the forepart of the jacket.
Trim back the excess lining and prepare to join the back.