Jacket baste Part 2

Once the foreparts are canvas, turn the edges on the thread marks and press with a hot iron.

Baste in the back, stretch the waist inlay and lap the inlay over and baste again. A strip of linen should be add to the back neck. This will support the cloth when the collar is sewn to it.

Baste the hind arm of the sleeves are illustrated in the photos. Turn back the cuff and baste two lines of stitching.

Press well, a crisp cuff is needed for an accurate sleeve length.

As I never use fusing in my garments the pocket flaps are re-enforced with silesia, which is sewn in with the lining. The flaps are bagged out and the edge is baste before pressing.

As this is a skeleton baste, there are no pockets. This allow the client the choice as to whether hey would like them higher or lower. Pocket positioning is quite important as they can shorten or length the body.

The collar is hand padded to create maximum shape. The collar is moulded by the tailors stitches.

When the collar is padded it is then shaped by a dry hot iron. It is pull, stretched and shrunk into shape

The canvas edge is trimmed back before attaching to the jackets. This ensures the canvas is covered, as it would look unsightly when the jacket is finished.

When joining the shoulders fullness is added to the back shoulder seam. This is to allow for the clients shoulder blades. The shoulder seam should curve to the front when the jacket is worn. This is a good indicator as whether there is adequate  fullness in the seam.

 Now attach the pad. I prefer to use a thin pad. Usually 1/4" but this depends on the clients shoulders. I like to keep the shoulder soft and natural.

Stitch the collar flat across the back adding no fullness as this will cause the collar to stand off the neck. I tend to bend my collars at the neck, so it grips the shirt collar. The jacket collar should sit neat and close to the neck, with the lapels rolling to the top button.

I cut a high armhole, I like to keep it close to the wearer. The sleeve is fulled into the armhole, this allows  for maximum movement when worn.

This photo shows the excess cloth in the sleeve. This fullness will be shrunk away when pressed.

When the jacket baste is complete it should be pressed and hung to dry.
It takes approximately eight hours to complete a skeleton baste. Once fitted it will be ripped down, remarked and the pockets added before it is reassembled for the next fitting.