Dinner Jacket, part Two







A new client should expect three fittings with their first order. Their pattern used and updated after each fitting and then file for future orders. An accurate pattern cut for the first suit will service both the tailor and customer well, speeding up production and delivery time, as few fittings are required.
After the pocket baste the jacket is rip and remarked. The front edge is shaped and cut with a 1/4" seam allowance. The body canvas is pared back behind that 1/4", keeping the canvas free of the seam.

 This image displays the inside of the jacket, we see clearly the hand padded lapels, canvas, the pockets fastened to the body canvas to strength them. Each pocket is sewn through the canvas, using a window in the canvas to prevent bulk in the seams.
 Black domette is applied over the foreparts under the facing, this creates a soft firm bed for the silk to lay on, this is then stitch to the canvas with black cotton thread.
The domette is pared off behind the canvas 1/8" thus preventing bulk in the finished seam.
 Bias lining is draw off a long the front edge of the jacket and held in position with a basting stitch. Drawing the edge is this was holds the front of the jacket and curls the hem towards the body.
The bias lining tape is padded to the canvas, the stitches on the jacket side shouldn't catch through to the jacket front, an error such as this would create an unsightly dimple on the finish jacket front, difficult to remedy as cutting the stitch would undo the work intend inside.
 The ribbed silk facing is basted full onto the jacket front, the fullness in the facing should match that of the bias lining tape in the front edge. 
Note: The is no fullness in the facing from the top button to 1 1/4" below the end of the point, 3/16 of fullness should be ease between there and the points tip.

The silk facing can be back stitched or machine sewn to the front edge, it is typical of Savile row to machine the front edge as it has a cleaner appearance when finished.
The silk edge is turn and the seam is carefully pressed open on a wooden edge board. The point is worked out gentle with a bodkin.
 The edge and facing are basted out with black thread as opposed to the regular white, this is to prevent trace fibers  showing up on the finished jacket.
 The under collar is basted to the back neck first before joining the lapels, a cotton or linen stay should be inserted to the back neck to allow for support for the sewing of the collar. The collar is the connect point of the garment and particular attention should be paid as it is often put on tight.
Fullness is applied between the neck point and break on the under collar, this pushes the collar onto the client collar, the term used by tailors is "biting the neck".
 The most common defect found in all jackets available anywhere is a long or short collar. This term refers to the roll of the lapel. It is optimum to have the lapel roll and stop at the top button, but oft is the case the lapel will roll high (long collar), or roll through (short collar).
 The lapel on a handcrafted suit show never be pressed flat, the hand padding used during the construction provides a gentle roll on the finish lapel.
The bias tape in the front holds the front in tension when the basting stitches are removed.
  Here we see my side silhouette, I enjoy a nipped side seam with a little skirt in the hip
and drape in the front chest.
 I cut the back clean, no wrinkling or drape under the back armholes, I draw off my armhole with a hand chain stitch at this point when inserting the sleeve this allows movement when the jacket is finished.
Drape is cut into the sleeve pattern to allow cloth at the top of he hind arm so the figure has 360 movement
The class Dinner Jacket consist of a dull finished ribbed silk facing, one button with jetted pocket, no flaps or vents, four button cuff with matching silk cover buttons. A lapel hole on the left with a boutonniere. 


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